I have a strong fascination with illusion knitting and have been working on expanding its possibilities, leveraging Stoll's technology. My innovation includes the introduction of a plaiting feeder and exploring ways to create unique optical effects using a minimal color palette.
While my vision was ambitious, I faced limitations in terms of equipment and time constraints, preventing me from fully realizing all my fabric designs into finished garments. However, I successfully transformed one design into a garment, showcasing the concept and demonstrating its technical feasibility through sample fabrics.
A sample testing illusional knit with plaiting feeder, and using transferred stitches to form eyelets that outline different color areas.
#1: double-sided illusional knit vest
Rather than seen by others, the wearer has the clearest view of the pattern on the garment. As the wearer moves, others will gradually get curious, capture, and perceive what is there.
The pattern is designed to integrate with the wearer. Looking down, the wearer can see themselves holding a watermelon, spitting seeds, and dangling braids. It’s also reversible so the other pattern is a reflection of their face and two hands reaching the knitted pockets.
#2 Illusional knit with plaiting feeders
Since illusional knitting relies on two colors knitting two rows alternatively, the plaiting feeder is able to double the color, so I have four colors knitting. Each section of color is due to the rise of the purl stitch.
Traditional illusional knitting (sample#1) consists of two colors a and b, so you can see two colors, and the purl stitch forms a darker color due to the rise. Here, it consists of four colors a,b,c, and d. Color b,d are the yarns for purl stitch in the plaiting feeder. Therefore, two completely different colors a,c from b,d can be seen when it’s knitting.
#3 Knit-weave + half cardigan
The knit-weave technique allows the fabric to retain its shape to some extent after being stretched. I was trying to explore creating a third optical experience with two colors with the introduction of a half-cardigan structure. I’m also curious about how the less stretchy structure (knit-weave) will interact with an elastic structure (half-cardigan).
Each technique creates an instinctive surface. Depending on the yarn, the knit-weave can look drastically different. Here, two yarns are not the same component nor size, when the sample is relaxed, the woven thread will pop up as small loops. The loops are more prominent because the cardigan structure makes the tension uneven.
The sample on the right is a even structure of solely knit-weave structure. It’s super flat with even some sheen to the surface.
If an elastic yarn is woven (middle sample), the dimension of the piece shrinks drastically, and the woven thread looks like stitches to the knit surface.
overview of the semester
various test samples
jacquard + 2x2 rib, optical experiment
ottoman + eyelet, two colorways
